Tuesday, June 25, 2013

Shirt Tales

I've got more pics to post to update my progress on my shirt fabric.

A sketch of my overall plan for shirt pattern and a capture of my pixeLoom draft.



The reed is all sleyed--all 312 slots, all 624 threads! 

 Then it's all tied on and tensioned with a bit of waste thread woven in.  Not too bad!

The first few inches of real weaving.  

Up close and personal--count 24 vertical threads...that's only one inch!


  Overshot design detail.  I used two threads of the same thickness of the rest of the weft.  The design will be on the bottom of the shirt and on the ends of the sleeves.  It's 6 inches from bottom to top on the loom.

An underside view of the fabric so far.  Above the overshot design, the weft graduates from dark to lighter blue.  The overshot section is rolled up on the cloth beam.

Almost ready to weave the back of the shirt!


More to come...






Monday, June 24, 2013

The shirt off my back...

I'm working on weaving yardage in order to sew a shirt--a tunic.  I'm using the full width of my Baby Wolf for the first time--all 26 inches!  That means at 24 ends per inch, 625 ends total!  The warp is 10/2 cotton in royal blue.  I wove an overshot pattern in green that will be at the bottom of the shirt.  All the weft--blues and light green--is 22/2 Cottolin.

I have spent many hours scheming, designing and trying out patterns on pixeLoom.  I wound the warp in batches on my warping board.  I removed all the loom's harnesses and adjusted the number of heddles to just fit my pattern so there would be enough by not too many on each harness.  I had to adapt my pattern to share harnesses because of the high epi count.  Winding on the warp with such a thin yarn and at such a width gave me fits, but I accomplished it!

I threaded heddles, sleyed the reed (my husband likes to think of me as a weaving warrior who "slays" things--hee hee), tied on, adjusted the tension and away I went!  I've got the first 15 inches of the front (or back) woven.  I think it's turning out nicely.  I like the texture of the Cottolin for weft with the worry-free cotton warp.

I know people will ask me how many hours it took--No idea!  Maybe 30 so far?

Pics to show progress:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/kangaposse/9129313679/

Threading the heddles and sleying the reed:








Sunday, June 9, 2013

Grant Weaving Catch uP! Thanks again MRAC and McNight Foundation for the Next Step Fund!

In between the projects already described, I have experimented with various weaving techniques and weave structures making "practice" pieces and samples with various types of yarns as a part of my grant project...

These first two pieces (pictured far and near) are samples I wove at the MN St. Fair in the Fall of 2012 as part of the MN Weavers Guild demonstration.  It was my first public weaving experience.  I had some great interactions with people and had fun experimenting with the treadling order.  The warp was the same on both pieces but the weft was different and has sort of a color gradation cycle.  All of it was some sort of cotton weaving yearn.






 This is my first "go" at overshot weaving: front and back and close up.



This piece is a "practice" piece woven in preparation for weaving the voyageur sashes.  I ditched this design because the floats were too big for sashes--they would have gotten caught on things.

The following pics are of a long "practice" piece--again for the voyageur sashes--where I experimented with lots of different weft colors and treadling sequences.  I also had fun with different fringe-finishing techniques.

 

 

The following two pieces were woven by me during a tapestry weaving class I took at the WGM from Traudi Bestler.  It was great!

 

 I am truly enjoying the benefits of the grant and am eager to continue learning more!



Seven Sashes for Widgiwagon!

It's the time of year when groups of high school age kids embark on a 6 week canoe trek in northern MN and Canada like voyageurs past.  This year I accepted a commission to weave seven sashes for such a group.  What on earth are voyageur sashes for?  And where did they come from?  The following is a quote from this url:
http://www.tfo.org/emissions/rendezvousvoyageur/en/world/personallife/clothing.html

"The sash is essential to the voyageur's clothing kit. Other than holding his coat closed around the waist, historians also believe the sash provided back support during portages.
Many theories exist about its origins. The most probable is that it came from Native peoples, from the Great Lakes region or the Assomption area of Quebec."

And from: http://www.hoosierhandweaving.com/Hoosier_Handweaving/About_%22Voyageur%22_sashes.html

''In the 1700s and 1800s, both French voyageurs and Native Americans enjoyed wearing colorful sashes and garters for both practical and ceremonial occasions. They are known by many names: voyageur, metis (hear it inFrench) (hear it in English), Red River, Hudson's Bay, and L'Assomption sashes. The men wore them by wrapping them twice around their waists. Voyageur sashes could also be slung around the forehead to support packages being carried. In addition to their own use, voyageur sashes were also traded for pelts."

The original voyageur sashes were finger woven, but I opted to use a twill pattern on my floor loom--otherwise the trekkers from Widgiwagon would be getting their sashes in the year 2023!

The head of the group I wove sashes for picked out the colors of the wool yarn (Harrisville Highland) and suggested that the iris would represent water (lakes, rivers), the magenta would represent the landscape and the gold would represent the sun.  Accordingly, I created a design for each of the colors to match those themes.  Here is the result:

Here is my draft--created by me on pixeLoom.
Here is my loom all warped and ready to go!










Here is scarf #3 or #4 from my second warp.  I wove the sashes in two sections: the first was three sashes long, the second was four sashes long.  You can see how large the roll of fabric is down by my knees.

Here are two completely woven sashes.  The one on the left has been washed and fulled a little bit, the one on the right has not.  Notice the difference in length and the subtle difference in the design.  Fulling it makes it a more sturdy fabric and gives it a softer feel.



I think they turned out rather nice.  I hope the "voyageurs" from Widgiwagon enjoy them.










Weaving notes for future reference:
Colors of Harrisville: one cone Iris, two cones Magenta, two cones Gold (warp) and five cones Silver Mist (weft) for 10 cones total.  I ended up with an extra cone of silver mist.
epi: 10
ppi: 10
width in reed: 10" with 101 ends
final width after fulling: 8.5"
I marked the sections by tying a short piece of thread around the gold yarn on the outside.   Each section was at least 9'5" or 113" long and I left 10.5" on each for fringe.
I warped my loom twice--3 sashes in the first lot and 4 in the next..
The final length after fulling was approximately 86":  80" of woven material and 6" of fringe on each end.
Fringes: I twisted grouping of 3+3 except for one grouping which was 3+2.
Fulling: I washed them vigorously in hot soapy water and also alternated some with cold water baths with some intervals of throwing them on the tub floor.  Very exhausting!

Final words: It was a good experience and I learned a lot, though it took MUCH longer that I originally thought it would.